Veal chops

Veal chops seem to be perfect candidates for quick cooking on the grill, but all is not as it seems. The chops from a young vealer are often confused by fat and sinew and sheaths, hanging about. Remarkably, they are great when cooked slowly in stock or tomatoes. If you wish to cook them quickly, put in a bit of pre-preparation — tear them from the bones and remove all the extras. Then you’ll be sure they are tender.

4 veal chops per person — Bone them and clean them of all fat and sinew, keeping the trimmings and bones for a stock. You will be left with rather tiny nuts of pink veal.

1

Tap lightly the cleaned meat with the flat edge of a heavy knife, in a criss-cross form on each side. The veal will flatten a little, without losing its shape. The grid will ensure perfect tenderness, even if the meat is not naturally tender.

2

Heat a little oil in a heavy pan and slap the veal into the pan, making sure it does not stick. Move about gently until it is well browned. Cook for about a minute on one side, turn, and remove from the heat. The cooking will be completed in the hot pan.

3

Make a sauce from the sediment in the pan, a little butter and lemon juice. Season and serve with some old-fashioned vegetables.

WINE: I like the idea of a buxom chardonnay with my veal chops. Len Evans calls them ‘Dolly Parton styles’. Try the Chairman’s Selection from Renmano or the Pinnacle or Mamre Brook from Saltrams.