Slow-cooked Salmon

Tasmania’s farmed salmon industry has gone from nothing to becoming one of our great providers in less than ten years. No wonder. The fish is pure joy, and available north, south, east and west, and all parts in between.
Here is really no need for any accompaniment to this dish, other than a little quality olive [...]

Fish for the kids

There are no rules for cooking for children. It’s as much a case of pulling out whatever they liked yesterday, adding two tablespoons of hope, a couple of wild jokes, and mixing it all together gently with patience; when they won’t take that, give them what they wanted in the first place.
Just persevere. Every now [...]

A touch of India, and scallops

Scallops don’t need much assistance really. If you’re adding extras, make sure they are not of the sort which overwhelms. Allow the scallops to speak for themselves, and go for them as a light main course, perhaps preceding your best plate of cheese.
Onions, cooked slowly in the pan are a perfect accompaniment for just about [...]

Scallops on the half shell with a little soy

For years we suffered the flavour loss which comes from that shonky fishmongers’ method of profiting by soaking scallops, purportedly to clean them of any muck from the sea. All they did was rinse them of their best, most subtle flavours, and add large volumes of water, water we paid for on the scales.
Then one [...]

A prawn salad with Gnocchi

There are some old delicacies that just wouldn’t be the same without cream. Gnocchi is one of them. And the sauce that comes from belting down prawn stock with cream is just one of the most intense flavours of cooking. That’s the simple way, one-directional cooking, and by and large it’s fine. But now and [...]

Snapper in a tomato sauce

My past has come back to haunt me. As I read my cholesterol level on the lab sheet at 20 per cent higher than the optimum, my mind raced back through all those throwaway lines from food columns of the past: ‘drown the lot in butter’; ’serve with cream or ice cream, or better both’; [...]

Poaching orange roughy

The previous butter-soaked fish dishes came from my restaurant days, somewhere between 1983 and 1988. The following was written in May, 1990, when the penny was starting to drop.
I think I must be falling for this health propaganda in some sort of subconscious way. Not so long ago, if you gave me a fish to [...]

Bugs or scallops in a tarragon butter

You must learn from your mistakes. It was during one special dinner that a disastrous series of events, interspersed by one or two sacre bleus, led me to one of the most delectable treats I have tasted. Certainly the meal was the best part of an hour behind schedule, but the result was remarkable.
By great [...]

Prawns in a butter and black pepper sauce

I have flirted and failed with diets for so long I cannot look at the word these days without being riddled with guilt and self-doubt. I know all the reasons why a sensible diet should be part of my life. I eat too much, liking food for its delicious flavours and tastes, that I just [...]

A parcel of mussels

There’s another, even more impressive-looking version of the previous dish, which is easier to prepare — crepes instead of puff pastry — and can be made well in advance. In the end, it looks like a purse. Flavour and wit together. It was one of the most consistent dishes on the old restaurant menu, and [...]