Tandoori chicken, almost

You’re not ever likely to have a tandoor oven in the kitchen, never likely to have access to the brilliant dry heat of these marvellous Indian vats of cooking, but with a bit of trickery and a touch of magic, you can produce some of the flavours of the tandoor, simply.

6 chicken breasts — 1 per person

THE MARINADE

1 red pepper, roasted and peeled 1 onion, chopped finely

1 clove garlic, chopped roughly

1 similar-sized piece of ginger,

skinned and chopped

salt

2 cups plain yoghurt, no sugar added

THE PASTE

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 similar-sized piece of ginger, skinned and chopped

1 chilli, chopped

2 dessertspoons paprika

1 dessertspoon chilli powder

juice of 2 lemons

black pepper

1

THE NIGHT BEFORE
The chicken needs to be marinated overnight, a bit like tired feet after a long march. Mix the red pepper, onion, garlic, ginger and a little salt with the yoghurt.

2

Make the paste: whizz the garlic, ginger, chilli, paprika, chilli powder and lemon juice together.

3

Remove the skin from the breasts and rub the paste all over them. They will have the bright orange-red colour of an auctioneer at the fall of the hammer.

4

Prick the chicken breasts all over with a fork and cover with the yoghurt marinade. Leave overnight.

5

ON THE DAY
Heat the oven to flat out.

6

Cook the chicken on a tray until it is done, just giving to the touch. Turn the pepper mill over the top.

7

Serve with a dressed salad, with crisp bacon tossed through it; or a little of the marinade, brought to a boil, reduced and strained.

WINE: Big, full-flavoured fume blanc or sauvignon blanc will suit this dish. Try Taltarni’s or Tim Knappstein’s. Another I like is De Bortoli, Windy Peak.